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The One-Page Investment Plan: Write Your Rules Down Before the Market Tests Them

7 min read · Updated 2026-10-09

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Most portfolios don't fail in a crash. The plan fails, and usually because there never was one written down. In a calm month everyone is a long-term investor. In a month when the portfolio is down a quarter, the same person is deciding under stress, with the news in one ear and their own fear in the other.

Professional money managers handle this with an investment policy statement: a short document that says what the portfolio holds, how far it may drift, and what happens when markets move. You can write a personal version on one page by making five decisions. This guide walks through each one, and the builder at the end turns your answers into a plan you can keep.

Why a written plan beats good intentions

Take the investor who put $10,000 into the S&P 500 at the October 2007 peak. By March 2009 it was worth about $4,480. Anyone who sold there made that loss permanent. Anyone who held on, with dividends reinvested, was back to $10,000 by August 2012 and had about $68,310 by September 2026.

The plan didn't need to predict the crash. It only needed to decide, ahead of time, what holding through one looks like. That decision is far easier to make on a quiet afternoon than on the worst day of the year, and the table below shows why it is worth making.

$10,000 in the S&P 500 at the peak before each crash, dividends reinvested
Bought at the peak beforeWorst valueBack to $10,000Value in September 2026
2008 crash$4,480August 2012$68,310
COVID crash$6,630August 2020$24,690
2022 bear market$7,550December 2023$16,930
From the site's peak-investor study (SPY, closing prices). Past results don't predict future ones; the point is the decision, not the recovery.

Decision 1: your target mix

Write down each holding and the share of the portfolio it should be, adding up to 100%. Then give each one a single sentence that says why it is there. A fund you can't explain in one sentence is a fund you will sell at the wrong time, because you never knew what job it was doing.

The mix itself should follow from how much risk you can afford to take (your time horizon, income and other savings), not only how much you feel comfortable with. The Risk Profile tool separates the two if you are unsure.

  • •US stocks, 50%: long-term growth; I expect deep falls along the way.
  • •International stocks, 30%: growth that doesn't depend on one country's market.
  • •Bonds, 20%: the cushion I rebalance from when stocks fall.

Decision 2: how far you let it drift

Markets move your mix every day. Rather than reacting to every move, pick a range around each target, measured in percentage points, and act only when a holding leaves it. A common choice is plus or minus 5 points: a 60% target is left alone anywhere from 55% to 65%.

A tighter range means more trades and more taxes in a taxable account; a wider one lets risk build up further before you act. The table shows how big a fall in a 60% holding (with everything else unchanged) it takes before each range says to act.

Range around a 60% targetActs belowFall in that holding that triggers it
±3 points57%11.6%
±5 points55%18.5%
±10 points50%33.3%
Arithmetic on the weights only: the same figures the builder below uses with your own mix.

Decision 3: what you add, and where it goes

Decide how much you add each month and where it goes. The simple rule: new money goes to whatever holding is furthest below its target. That rebalances the portfolio without selling anything, which matters in a taxable account where every sale can be a taxable event.

For most people still saving, regular contributions do most of the rebalancing work. Selling is only needed when a move is too large for new money to fix.

Decision 4: what you do if it falls 30%

This is the decision the whole plan exists for. Start with the arithmetic. In a 60/40 portfolio, if stocks fall 30% and bonds stay flat, stocks drop from 60% to about 51.2% of the portfolio. With a ±5 point range, that is below the 55% floor, so the plan says: rebalance back to 60%, using new money first.

In practice that means buying the thing that just fell, which is exactly what fear tells you not to do. That is why it has to be written down in advance. Write your rule as a sentence you would be willing to read on the worst day. For example: "If a fall pushes my mix outside its range, I rebalance back to target, new money first. I don't change my targets during a fall."

A plan can also say you will hold more cash or fewer stocks. What matters is that the decision is made while you are calm, and that it is the same decision on the day it is tested.

Decision 5: what would change the plan

A plan that can be changed whenever it feels wrong is not a plan. Write down the few things that would make you revisit it, and notice that none of them is a market move.

  • •A new goal or a new date for an existing one (a home, a child, retirement moving closer).
  • •A lasting change in income or in the savings you rely on.
  • •A once-a-year review on a date you choose, done whether markets are up or down.
  • •Not on the list: a headline, a bad quarter, or a fund that did better than yours last year.

Put it on one page

Five answers fit on a single page. Keep it where you will see it, and read it before you make any change to the portfolio. The builder below writes the page with your own funds and numbers, and a free account checks your portfolio against it every month, so you don't have to remember to.

DecisionAn example answer
Target mixVTI 50%, VXUS 30%, BND 20%, each with a one-line reason
Range±5 points around each target
Contributions$500 a month, to whatever is furthest below target
If it falls 30%Rebalance back to target, new money first; targets don't change during a fall
What changes the planA life change or the yearly review; never a headline
An example of the format, not a recommendation. Your mix and numbers are yours to choose.

Write yours · about 2 minutes

Your one-page plan

Make the five decisions below. Nothing is saved until you choose to keep it.

1. Your target mix

Starting points, not recommendations. Type your own funds and weights.

%
%
Total: 100%

2. How far you let it drift

You act only when a holding leaves its range. Inside it, you leave the portfolio alone.

3. What you add each month

Optional. New money goes to whatever is furthest below its target, so you rebalance without selling.

4. What you do if it falls 30%

If VTI alone fell 30%, it would go from 60% to about 51.2% of your portfolio: below your 55% floor. Your plan says rebalance back to 60%, using new money first. Your range is crossed after a fall of about 19%.

5. What would change the plan

A change in your life: a new goal, a new timeline, a change in income. Not a headline, and not last month's return.

My plan

  • Targets: VTI 60%, BND 40%
  • Range: ±5 points around each target
  • Monthly: no regular contribution set
  • Check: once a month; act only outside the range
  • Change it: only when my life changes

A free account keeps this plan and checks your portfolio against it every month. No card. An educational tool, not advice.

Try it yourself

FAQ

What is an investment policy statement?
A short written document that sets out what a portfolio is for, what it holds, how far it may drift and how it is managed when markets move. Institutions and advisors use formal versions; an individual investor can write a one-page version covering the same decisions.
Do I need a plan if I own a single all-in-one fund?
Yes, a shorter one. A one-fund portfolio rebalances itself inside the fund, so the range decision falls away, but the other decisions (what you add each month, what you do in a fall, and what would change the plan) matter just as much.
How often should I review my investment plan?
Once a year on a fixed date, and whenever your life changes in a lasting way. Reviewing it because markets fell is the habit the plan is meant to replace.
Is a rebalancing range better than rebalancing on a schedule?
Both work. A range acts only when something has moved enough to matter; a schedule is simpler. Many people check monthly or yearly and act only when a holding is outside its range, which combines the two.
Is this financial advice?
No. This guide explains how to write down your own decisions; it doesn't tell you what to hold. The example mixes are illustrations, and the figures are arithmetic or past data, which don't predict future results.

Key terms in this guide

Plain-English definitions in the Learning Hub.

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How to Write an Investment Plan on One Page (a Personal Investment Policy Statement) | Informed Portfolio